The pickpocket warnings clock in at three a page in the lonely planet guide. I worry until I remember that they probably say the same about Oxford. Figuring out the trams takes a little longer, but riding them is fun and easy. It only takes two false starts to find ths hotel... which turns out to have fresh sheets, plentiful hot water, clean toilets and biiig Dutch breakfasts, so the fact that otherwise it's a bit of a flophouse is easily forgiven. It also has a polite but hungry labrador and a big glass case containing adverts for diamonds in the porch (I'd not really call it a lobby) which begs the question, especially on the third flight of astoundingly steep stairs, who'd bring someone to a place like this, and then buy them a diamond?