The Albatros was billed as tacky, but turned out to be way stylish (with the exception of the stuffed albatross, I suppose) and awesome, especially their fish tank, which contains three clownfish, something brownish and an anenome the size of my head. They feed us winkles and rye bread and freshly-made anchovy relish before we've even ordered, bless 'em. Just as well, as the cheap and cheerful night out listed in our guide has metamorphised into a major gourmet affair with fennel salad, six sorts of fish, ginger, mustard, cream and exquisite seasoning to a soundtrack of the barely-audible squeals of lobsters and piped seaside sounds. We're aiming for main course only, but we see someone else eat pudding and, well .... Ellé has a Dame Blanche (vanilla ice cream with pour-on overproof chocolate) and I have something called a gember "misu" - a shocking mix of crystallized ginger and ginger ice cream in a roll of soft chocolate and ginger cake. Ouch. I have a new favourite flavour.